We love clothes, right? Global clothing consumption has increased avalanche-like in the last ten years, partly due to an ever-increasing international middle class. Where should all the material come from to cover the increased demand? A future fibre is neither from cotton nor synthetic materials. As Rethink has previously mentioned, cotton is a crop that requires large amounts of water and chemicals. And increasing the production of synthetic textile fibres made from crude oil is also not sustainable. Therefore, interest in forest-based textiles has increased in the clothing industry.
Reduced demand for pulp has led many Swedish forest companies to set their sights on the textile industry. Recently, there has been a significant increase in the production of dissolving pulp, a critical raw material used in manufacturing various cellulose-based textile fibres such as viscose and lyocell. And more is likely to happen the demand for dissolving pulp is constantly increasing as more and more cellulose-based fibres are mixed into our garments [1].
THE FOREST INDUSTRY RELATES VISCOSE AND OTHER CELLULOSE-BASED FIBRES AS SUSTAINABLE AND A MATERIAL FOR THE FUTURE. BUT TURNING CELLULOSE PULP INTO TEXTILE IS STILL A CHEMICAL- AND ENERGY-INTENSIVE PROCESS.
Artificial fibres from plant-based raw materials (cellulose) are called regenerated fibres. In addition to pine, spruce, beech, and other trees, we use eucalyptus, bamboo, and hemp to make textiles [2].
A common material made from the so-called regenerated fibre is viscose. The wood is chipped from trees and boiled into a cellulose mass when producing viscose. Further, to create as pure cellulose as possible, it is bleached. The pulp is then dried in large sheets and sold for export—especially to China—where they produce more than half of the world’s viscose.
Viscose is a highly demanded textile material today, but it has become too expensive due to strict environmental laws in some countries. Instead, we send the cellulose to countries with weaker legislation regarding the use of chemicals and with deficient or non-existent systems for dealing with the polluted water that remains after production. 83% of all viscose is manufactured in China, India, and Indonesia [3].
The cellulose mass undergoes grinding to create a viscous solution aided by substances like carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide. Through filtration, the pulp is then immersed in a bath containing sulfuric acid, causing the cellulose to form flexible filaments of desired lengths. Unfortunately, the chemicals employed in this production method pose significant environmental risks, polluting lakes and waterways while endangering the health of those who rely on these water sources and aquatic animals. Carbon disulfide, for instance, has been linked to a range of severe health issues, including neurological damage, congenital disabilities, miscarriages, blindness, and an increased risk of cardiovascular disease. As a result, local fishing communities face adverse consequences, grappling with diminished livelihood opportunities and more significant challenges in sustaining themselves.
THERE IS A LOT OF RESEARCH GOING ON TO FIND LESS CHEMICAL-INTENSIVE AND MORE ENERGY-EFFICIENT WAYS TO PRODUCE TEXTILE MATERIALS FROM TREES.
Globally many initiatives investigate future possibilities for wooden-based fabrics. Even small countries like Sweden are exploring options for future viscose production in their country. Manufacturing close to the raw material also benefits the environment.
If the viscose and dissolving pulp production were directly adjacent, it could coordinate the processes, reducing the use of chemicals needed in both operations.
Another popular cellulose-based material is Lyocell, a relatively new material whose production has higher environmental requirements than viscose. Lyocell production primarily relies on organic chemicals, allowing for the recycling of solvents and water during manufacturing. Additionally, the production chemicals employed are biodegradable, contributing to a reduced environmental footprint. Furthermore, using wood scraps from cotton production to create pulp serves as an additional measure to minimize the overall environmental impact of the process [5].
Lyocell, like viscose, is made from eucalyptus, spruce, or pine. The manufacturing process utilizes environmentally friendly solvents and adopts closed systems to ensure the chemicals are not released into the environment. Moreover, the production is sulfur-free and reputed to be less energy-intensive. Notably, certain studies indicate that the resulting end product boasts enhanced durability compared to viscose, thereby extending the lifespan of the garments [6].
Do you know the fabric names Tencel and Modal? These are other wood-based fibers – both of which are registered trademarks. Tencel owned by Lenzing, is the same as Lyocell, with the difference that Tencel always comes from FSC-certified forestry [7]. Likewise, modal production is similar to viscose, but the raw material always comes from beech trees.
BENEFITS OF WOOD-BASED FIBERS
Despite a chemical-intensive production, there are environmental benefits of regenerated fibres. The production of these fibres is less water-demanding than cotton and requires less land. And unlike synthetic fibres (such as polyester), regenerated fibres do not contribute to the spread of microplastics in the environment.
FOREST ORIGINS AND ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS
Approximately 30% of the viscose in the fashion industry is derived from endangered and old forests pulp. This practice results in habitat destruction, posing a grave threat to endangered species, and frequently involves human rights violations and the usurpation of land from Indigenous communities [3].
Hopefully, soon, we anticipate the ability to produce environmentally friendly textiles throughout the entire manufacturing process, from raw materials to fabric. Nevertheless, it is crucial to recognize the myriad of essential functions the forest serves. Prioritizing the expansion of our already overflowing closets might appear wasteful, as we should strive to optimize the forest’s resources.
WHAT CAN YOU DO?
- Do we need that much clothing? Make your voice heard, participate in debates, and talk to your friends to change your consumption habits.
- Buy second-hand.
- Arrange a swap party.
- Learn to mend and re-design.
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