Water! Vital for humans, plants, and animals. Imagine that the earth – the blue planet – consists of about 70% water. Of that, only about 3% is freshwater; we can use only 1% as glaciers bound 2%. We find this 1% in rivers, lakes, and groundwater. It’s hard not to pay attention to the crucial importance of water when talking about the textile industry.
In dyeing, rinsing, and preparation of textiles, we use chemicals to achieve the desired properties of a material. It can be anything from bleaching and dyeing to making the fabric softer, water-repellent, or flame-retardant. These processes also require large amounts of water; when the water is released, chemicals, chlorine, and heavy metals follow. The discharges often lead to surface water, groundwater, and soil pollution. The textile industry is the second largest polluter of freshwater after the agricultural industry. 20% of global industrial water pollution comes from sewage treatment and dyeing of textiles [1].
THE WORLD’S MOST POLLUTED RIVER
An infamous example is the “world’s most polluted river”: Ci Tarum, a nearly 30 km long waterway in Indonesia. Along Ci Tarum are the 400 textile factories that discharge wastewater into the river water. A few years ago, a sampling of the water showed that it contained high levels of substances that are toxic to humans, aquatic organisms, and the environment [2][3].
Before the textile factories arrived in the area in the 70s, Ci Tarum was a river where people used to swim and fish. Something that today is directly dangerous to health [4]. Millions of people are in regular contact with the river water, and severe health problems have been reported. In some parts of the river, the water has a pH value as high as 14, which can burn holes in human skin in direct contact [2].
One of the substances found in Ci Tarum was Nonylphenol. Nonylphenol is a hormone-disrupting substance formed when we brake down Nonylphenol ethoxylate (NPE). NPE is a surfactant used in textile manufacturing to wash raw cotton, fibre lubricate, and dye levelling [7]. NPE’s endocrine-disrupting properties affect, among other things, the reproductive capacity of animals. Due to its negative impact on the aquatic environment, the substance has previously been banned from production in the EU. In 2015, we also banned the import of NPE products into the EU. This limitation has motivated textile factories to find alternatives and discontinue the use of this substance [6].
HOW IS NATURE AFFECTED BY THIS?
Emissions of chemicals and heavy metals into watercourses not only affect humans but, of course, also affect nature. When we discharge polluted wastewater from textile factories, the water stains and becomes cloudy, which prevents sunlight from reaching the vegetation underwater. Following it prevents photosynthesis, leading to a lack of oxygen in the water, which means that organisms such as animals and plants gradually disappear and dead water is left behind. A decrease in small aquatic animals also affects larger animals dependent on them for food. Entire ecosystems can thus be disturbed, and we see this happening in agricultural areas around the textile factories, where a decrease in vegetation is evident [1].
THE RESPONSIBILITIES OF THE CLOTHING CHAINS
This narrative is far from a sunshine story; a lot is happening due to inadequate controls and legislation in the manufacturing nations. Clothing companies must thoroughly assess the environmental footprint across the entire supply chain. Since clothing is often manufactured in one part of the world and sold in another, political decisions regarding imports are also important. As the example with the EU and NPE!
The textile industry’s dyeing and preparation processes are undergoing significant changes. One notable advancement is adopting an air-based dyeing process as an alternative to traditional water-based methods [1]. Remarkably, this technique consumes 95% less water and 86% less energy than conventional approaches, making it a clear winner regarding environmental and climate considerations [5].
However, the initial costs of this novel approach often discourage its widespread implementation, especially considering the prevalent pursuit of cost-effective production among many companies. Consequently, the more traditional, water-intensive dyeing method remains the predominant choice [1].
SO WHAT CAN WE DO?
– Buy organic; use fewer chemicals in organically certified clothing production than in conventional. Which labels to look for? You can find more info here.
– Engage with or provide support to environmental organizations that actively work to influence companies and policymakers in enhancing their ecological efforts. These organizations operate on the ground, leveraging the increasing involvement of individuals at the grassroots level to bolster their endeavours.
Sources
- Researchgate.net – Textile Industry Wastewater: Environmental and Health Hazards and Treatment Approaches
- Storage.googleapis – Toxic Threads: Polluting Paradise
- Aquaexpert.se – Water Analysis
- Ejatlas.org – Textile Manufacturies in Indonesia Pollute The Citarum River at the Expense of Fashion
- Textileschool.com – Air-Flow Dyeing – an Eco-friendly water preserving fabric dyeing technology
- Greenpeace.org – Toxic chemical banned in EU textile imports
- Assets.publishing.service.gov.uk – NPE textiles summary report
