Fluorocarbons are a group of synthetic chemicals composed primarily of carbon and fluorine atoms known for their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, which give them unique properties such as resistance to heat, chemicals, and water. We use this treatment to impart water- and stain-repellent properties to fabrics. If the fabric’s surface tension matches or exceeds that of a liquid, it will absorb the liquid; conversely, if the fabric’s surface tension is lower than the liquid’s, it will repel it.
Fluorocarbons are persistent organic pollutants that break down slowly in the environment, affecting ecosystems and potentially harming humans, aquatic life, and other wildlife. Many valuable fluorocarbons contain hydrogen, chlorine, and bromine. Bromine compounds serve as flame retardants, added to textiles to reduce flammability. Additionally, we use fluorocarbons in non-stick coatings, refrigerants, and fire extinguishing agents, among other applications. This widespread use has raised concerns about potential detrimental effects on biodiversity.
Fluorocarbons can leach into the environment at various stages of the textile lifecycle: production, use, and disposal. When laundering, the fluorocarbon treatments can wash off and enter domestic wastewater systems. These substances often pass through sewage treatment plants without being completely removed, entering rivers, lakes, and oceans.
There are many types of fluorocarbons, with PFCs (perfluorocarbons) and PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) being some of the most common. PFAS is a collective name for over a thousand different substances with varying properties but similar chemical structures. PFOS and PFOA are among the most common, but are now banned above specific levels in the EU, as both are carcinogenic and reproductive toxins.
If a product is labelled PFOA-free, it does not automatically mean that it does not contain other PFAS substances, which can be just as harmful. New substances are constantly being added, and legislation cannot keep up. At the time being, it is only possible to investigate and ban one substance at a time, which makes the process lengthy.
However, there are regulations in place within the textile industry to limit the use of fluorocarbons, particularly PFAS, such as the EU’s REACH regulation and the US TSCA (Toxic Substances Control Act). In addition, there are voluntary initiatives, such as the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) program and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification, aimed at eliminating hazardous chemicals and ensuring environmentally safe textiles.
To reduce harmful effects, more environmentally friendly alternatives have been developed, including plant-based oils, synthetic waxes, and biodegradable polymers. These reduce dependence on fossil fuels.
To drive the demand for textiles that are free from fluorocarbons and other harmful chemicals to support biodiversity efforts, you can:
- Learn about harmful chemicals in textiles and their impacts.
- Choose brands that are better for the environment: Opt for brands with certifications like OEKO-TEX® and GOTS.
- Buy less, choose quality, and prefer sustainable materials.
- Reduce waste by choosing second-hand or vintage items.
- Re-design or up-cycle items to reduce waste.
Sources
Science Direct – Finishing of textiles with fluorocarbons 
Fashion and textiles – Development of shrink resistance cotton using fluorocarbon
Haley Aldrich – Textile manufacturing and PFASfacturing-and-pfas-three-phases-of-risk
Ecotextile – EU likely to ban C6-based textile coatings
National Library of Medicine – A Review of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances
Naturskyddsföreningen – Vad är PFAS?
Mars 2025, TÄNKOM | Revised Sept 2025 RETHINK
