Viscose - a regenerated fibre - ReThink

Rayon, the earliest regenerated fibre, traces its origins to various processes, notably the viscose method, which originated in England in 1891, giving rise to the term ‘viscose.’ Commercial viscose production commenced in the USA in 1910 under the name ‘artificial silk’ [1], owing to its notable softness and luster [2]. In 1924, the name was changed to rayon [1], and the fibre quickly gained popularity due to its lower cost than silk and cotton [2]. Over the years, viscose has undergone evolution, acquiring new properties and applications [1].

Photo: Green Citizen

Photo: Treehugger

Viscose is a type of rayon fibre [3]. It is usually made from wood or bamboo cellulose [3] and cotton [2]. The viscose process chemically converts cellulose into a viscous solution [4]. By wet spinning, we press the solution out through spinning nozzles into a spinning bath where the cellulose is regenerated into fibre form in filament length[4].

During manufacturing, we can modify the viscose [1], enabling it to replicate the feel and texture of various natural fibers, including silk and cotton [3]. Regenerated fibres have similar properties to cotton, but the fibres are often slightly weaker (except lyocell), which can reduce the lifespan of clothing [5].

Manufacturers use viscose in various clothing and linings, often blending it with other fibers [6]. Its high moisture absorption capacity makes it a suitable material for disposable hygiene products.

Viscose is used in many different clothes and in lining, and often occurs in mixtures with other fibers (6). The high moisture absorption capacity makes viscose a good material in hygienic disposable items.

A mild alkaline solution is a good solution for washing viscose as it can turn weak by strong alkalis [4]. Viscose becomes sensitive when wet and may need to be dry cleaned [2]. Hand-washing is an option, and machine-washing in a gentle program, such as delicates, in cool or lukewarm water. Viscose may shrink slightly after washing [8].

The production of viscose has significant adverse effects on the environment and human health. Making viscose fibers involves using toxic chemicals to break down wood pulp, posing health risks to workers [2]. Unfortunately, these chemicals are occasionally improperly disposed of or recycled within production facilities, contributing to air and water pollution. Moreover, we also characterize viscose production by high water and energy consumption.

Viscose production often uses wood pulp as a raw material, contributing to the deforestation of ancient and endangered forests [2]. Logging can negatively impact ecosystems, threaten protected and vulnerable species living in these forests, and deprive indigenous peoples and local communities of their land. Soil and water quality can also be degraded by the chemicals from pest control and fertilizers and the waste left over from logging and transporting forests.

The process is considered carbon-neutral; the trees absorb as much carbon dioxide during growth as is released when harvested [2]. Although viscose is biodegradable, it does not break down effectively in contemporary landfills. Instead, it can decompose in the soil, releasing toxins from fiber and fabric production, dyeing, processing, and washing into the ground.

For more sustainable viscose, labels such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), EU Ecolabel, and OekoTex 100 can help [2]. The best environmental option is to choose eco-labeled clothing made from regenerated fibers; if unavailable, select lyocell over viscose [5]. The production of lyocell uses more environmentally friendly solvents, and the chemicals are primarily recycled.

Sources

September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK

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