Manila hemp has been cultivated and used for textiles in the Philippines for hundreds of years [1]. Europeans discovered the fibre through Magellan, who came to the Philippines in 1521. In the 19th century, the Spanish began to export the fibre and the material became known as one of the best for marine rope and fishing gear [2]. From the 1950s, Manila hemp was gradually replaced by synthetic materials, and new uses for the fibre emerged in paper.
Photo: Textile Learner
Manila hemp, also called Abaca fibre, is a leafy fibre that comes from the plant Musa Textilis, which belongs to the genus banana tree. The fibres are coarse and very long, between 1-3 m in length, depending on the size of the leaf shaft and the processing method used [1]. The shiny fibre varies in colour, from white to brown, red, purple or black. The plant from where the fibre comes from grows in reasonably rich, loose clay soil with good drainage [1] and thrives in tropical and humid climates [4].
The English name for Manila hemp is Abacá. Despite the name, Manila hemp is not hemp.
The Philippines and Central America are the leading producers of Manila hemp. The plant is native to the Philippines, the largest producer of Manila hemp in the world [4]. The second largest producer is Ecuador.
The fibre is strong, durable and flexible. It is one of the strongest fibres, and salt water doesn’t harm the fibre [4]. Manila hemp fabrics are stiff and retain their structure well [5]. It is considered a ‘hard fibre’ and has a similar texture to coconut fibre, among others.
Manila hemp has various uses: in the manufacture of speciality paper [4], in ropes and fishing nets, in interior textiles such as carpets and tablecloths, and clothing, hats and shoes [1].
Manila hemp has a history as a marine material and is still used for ropes, fishing lines and nets [4]. We can also make burlap of it. However, the primary use is in paper making. Most fibres are crushed and processed into speciality papers such as tea and coffee bags, currency paper and cigarette paper. We also use manila hemp in the automotive industry as a soft filler material in interiors and as a substitute for fibreglass in some plastic components. Using natural fibres instead of fibreglass can reduce the weight of car parts and facilitate a more environmentally friendly production and recycling of parts.
Manila hemp fabrics are dyed with natural dyes, as synthetic dyes can be too acidic for the fibre [6]. To remove wrinkles and creases, we can steam the fabric. They can be hand and machine-washed in cold water.
Harvesting Manila hemp is labour-intensive and done mainly by hand [5]. In the Philippines, manila hemp is often produced on small farms, providing income to many communities. In Ecuador, manila hemp is grown on large estates, although there are also many cooperative smallholders. As the industry is dependent on exports, the global economic situation has a significant impact on production and demand. Production is also greatly affected by weather conditions in the producing countries.
Manila hemp can help establish biodiversity in former monoculture farms and rainforest areas [4]. Manila hemp can also minimize erosion in coastal areas that are substantial breeding grounds for fish. We also use Manila hemp residues as an organic fertilizer.
We look at Manila hemp as a sustainable, environmentally friendly fibre that can strengthen communities [5]. The UN designated it as a “Future fibre”. However, there are few standards or certifications for Manila hemp.
Sources
- Wikipedia – Wikipedia – Abaca
- Nationalencyklopedin (NE) – Manilla hemp
- Encyclopædia Britannica – Abaca
- Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations (FAO) – Abaca
- Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) – Abaca
- The Sustainable Fashion Collective – What is banana fibre and how to make textiles from it?
September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK
