Lyocell is a type of rayon [1]. Enka Fibers in North Carolina, USA, developed Lyocell fibre in 1972. The fibre was called Newcell. The fibre was further developed in the 1980s by Lenzing, then under the name Tencel®. Tencel® started selling on the market in 1992 [2]. Tencel is still the best-known Lyocell fibre [3.
Photo: Make Fashion Better
We make Lyocell from regenerated cellulose by spinning it wet into fibres. The cellulose is dissolved using NMMO (N-methylmorpholine n-oxide), filtered and then spun in water [2]. The NMMO solution is not toxic to humans and is recycled as much as possible after the spinning process [3].
The appearance of the fabric resembles cotton fabric by hand feel but has a different sheen and weight. As a synthetic fibre, Lyocell can be modified in length and diameter during manufacturing. Lyocell has the property of fibrillation, which means that the fibre “splits a shorter or longer piece lengthwise” [3]. This fibrous structure is suitable for making soft or dense fabrics. However, over time, it can cause problems with fuzziness, pilling and other surface changes.
Lyocell as a fabric is comfortable to wear next to the skin but has poor heat retention. It has moderate elasticity which can cause it to wrinkle. It has a better elastic recovery compared to viscose and acetate. Lyocell absorbs more moisture than cotton and then releases it more quickly, which helps regulate body temperature and prevents bacteria from forming on the surface of the fabric [4]. This allows garments to stay odor-free for longer. Lyocell fabrics are soft, anti-static and anti-bacterial.
We incorporate Lyocel in many everyday fabrics. For denim, casual wear, underwear and towels, we use staple fibres. Filament fibres, which are generally longer and smoother than staple fibres, are used in items with a silkier appearance. We may blend Lyocell with other fibres like silk, cotton, rayon, polyester, linen, nylon, and wool. When mixed with other fibres, the resulting fabric is much stronger and more resistant to wear, tear, and pilling.
Lyocell products can be machine-washed gently or dry-cleaned. It is sensitive to acids but resistant to many organic solvents. However, mould can attack Lyocell as well as some insects.
Lyocell’s antibacterial properties are an advantage regarding environmental impact during use [4]. The ability of the fibres to remove moisture and prevent the growth of bacteria allows the garments to be used many times before washing. This feature is beneficial regarding the material’s environmental impact in terms of energy and water consumption during washing, where pollution from detergents and microfiber emissions have a strong environmental impact.
According to the company Lenzing, they process the pulp for Tencel sustainably, with a closed spinning process where almost all water and chemicals are recycled [4]. An organic solvent is used instead of sodium hydroxide to dissolve the pulp. However, there are concerns about the amount of energy used during manufacturing.
The production of Lyocell is more environmentally friendly than the production of modal and viscose, as they use hazardous chemicals [5]. The difference between the textile materials viscose and Lyocell is the use of more environmentally friendly solvents in Lyocell production and the fact that the chemicals are mainly reused [5]. The best option from an environmental point of view is to choose eco-labelled clothing made from regenerated fibres, and if this is not available, select Lyocell over viscose.
Sources
- Wikipedia – Lyocell
- CIRFS – Lyocell Man-Made Fibres
- Nationalencyklopedin (NE) – Lyocellfiber
- Common Objective – Fibre Briefing: Cellulosics (Lyocell, Modal, Cupro)
- Cariki – Tencel vs. modal vs. rayon; What’s the difference?
September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK
