Fluorocarbons are a group of synthetic chemicals composed primarily of carbon and fluorine atoms known for their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, which give them unique properties such as resistance to heat, chemicals, and water. We use this treatment to impart water- and stain-repellent properties to fabrics. If the fabric’s surface tension matches or exceeds that of a liquid, it will absorb the liquid; conversely, if the fabric’s surface tension is lower than the liquid’s, it will repel it.
Fluorocarbons are persistent organic pollutants that break down slowly in the environment, affecting ecosystems and potentially harming humans, aquatic life, and other wildlife. Many valuable fluorocarbons contain hydrogen, chlorine, and bromine. Bromine compounds serve as flame retardants, added to textiles to reduce flammability. Additionally, we use fluorocarbons in non-stick coatings, refrigerants, and fire extinguishing agents, among other applications. This widespread use has raised concerns about potential detrimental effects on biodiversity.
Fluorocarbons can leach into the environment at various stages of the textile lifecycle: production, use, and disposal.
During manufacturing, fluorocarbon resins are applied to fabrics, often using water or solvent-based emulsions. Leftover chemicals can enter wastewater, which manufacturing plants may discharge into local water bodies, causing environmental contamination. When laundering, the fluorocarbon treatments can wash off and enter domestic wastewater systems. These substances often pass through sewage treatment plants without being entirely removed, entering rivers, lakes, and oceans.
Several alternatives have been developed to address the environmental and health concerns associated with using fluorocarbons for water and stain repellency. These include renewable and biodegradable options like plant-derived oils and waxes, synthetic wax-based finishes, bio-based polymers, and plasma and UV treatments. These alternatives reduce reliance on fossil fuels and often offer biodegradable solutions.
In textiles, there are regulations on using fluorocarbons, particularly per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). These regulations vary by country and region but aim to limit these substances’ environmental and health impacts.
- The EU’s Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) regulation restricts the use of certain hazardous substances, including some PFAS.
- The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has taken steps to regulate certain PFAS under the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA).
- Canada has regulations that prohibit the manufacture, use, sale, and import of specific toxic substances, including some PFAS, under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act (CEPA).
- The Australian government has issued guidelines for managing PFAS contamination and is working on regulations to limit their use.
- Japan regulates certain PFAS under its Chemical Substances Control Law, which requires the notification and assessment of new chemicals before they are manufactured or imported.
The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme and The OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification are examples of voluntary industry initiatives and regulations, including fashion brands and retailers. These initiatives aim to eliminate hazardous chemicals to ensure products are safe and follow environmental standards.
To drive the demand for textiles that are free from fluorocarbons and other harmful chemicals to support biodiversity efforts, you can:
- Learn about harmful chemicals in textiles and their impacts.
- Choose brands that are better for the environment: Opt for brands with certifications like OEKO-TEX® and GOTS.
- Buy less, choose quality, and prefer sustainable materials.
- Reduce waste by choosing second-hand or vintage items.
- Re-design or up-cycle items to reduce waste.
Sources
Science Direct – Finishing of textiles with fluorocarbons 
Fashion and textiles – Development of shrink resistance cotton using fluorocarbon
Haley Aldrich – Textile manufacturing and PFASfacturing-and-pfas-three-phases-of-risk
Ecotextile – EU likely to ban C6-based textile coatings
National Library of Medecine – A Review of the Applications, Environmental Release, and Remediation Technologies of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances
National Library of Medecine – A Review of the Applications, Environmental Release, and Remediation Technologies of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances
