Wool from sheep - ReThink

Sheep’s wool has a long history as a textile fibre; woolen fabrics have been made since the 3rd century BC. Sheep wool was an essential commodity in Western Europe in the Middle Ages, with England as the leading supplier of fine wool [1]. Merino sheep were imported from North Africa to Spain in the Middle Ages and began breeding there. In the late 18th century, Merino sheep were exported to the rest of Europe and Australia [1].

Wool is a protein fibre that comes from the hair and fur of animals. Wool can also be called animal fibre and come from sheep, goats, camels, alpacas, llamas, rabbits, etc. [4].

There are over 1000 breeds of sheep in the world [3]. The most popular wool for clothing comes from the Merino sheep [5], which produces high-quality thin wool [4]. Other breeds have thicker wool suitable for interior textiles [3].

Wool is the world’s most widely used animal fibre [6]. The largest wool producers are China, Australia, and New Zealand [7]. The UK, Iran, Russia, and South Africa are other significant producers. Australia produces about 80 % of the merino wool used in textiles for clothing [8].

Protein fibres are hygroscopic, absorbing moisture without feeling wet [4]. This property allows wool to minimize temperature differences on the skin, such as when moving from indoors to outdoors. Wool absorbs moisture and generates heat, insulating the body from the cold. Wool is very elastic when the fibre is dry but not when wet. Wool can stretch up to 30% longer than its original length. Recovery from stretching is excellent but slow when the fabric is dry, but we can accelerate this with water, steam, and humidity. The elasticity of wool fibre means that woolen fabrics and garments keep their shape and do not wrinkle easily [9]. The elasticity and recovery from stretch suggest that woolen materials remain porous under external forces and can trap air and thus retain their warmth [4].

Wool has a natural matt appearance, but by blending short wool fibres with longer wool fibres, the luster or texture of the fabric can be modified [4]. Wool fabrics are durable and very flexible. The fibre can endure bending back on itself 20,000 times without breaking, a remarkable contrast to cotton’s 300 bends and rayon’s 75 bends.

Carded wool natural beige and gray colours. — Photo: Notjustalabel

Wool has many uses: in clothing, interior textiles such as carpets, insulation, and upholstery, and technical textiles such as protective equipment for firefighters and soldiers [3]. We can also use it to fertilize the soil.

We blend wool with other fibre types [7], and it can be knitted and woven to make fabrics such as tweed, gabardine, herringbone, and tartan [10]. Wool has the natural ability to prevent stains from being absorbed into the fabric [11] and to prevent odor formation by absorbing sweat and releasing it quickly enough to control the appearance of bacteria.

Many of today’s woolen products can be machine-washed and tumble-dried [11]. Hanging wool products on airing can also refresh them without washing. Steam can smooth out wrinkles in the fabric, but direct heat from an iron can damage the material [12]. Wool products can be dried by laying them on a flat surface, which can prevent wrinkling. We must store the material in a dark and cool place to protect wool from fading and being damaged by light and heat. Wool is sensitive to alkalis, bleaching with chlorine, and insect attacks, such as moths [4] and silverfish [11].

Wool is a renewable resource [5]. It is also biodegradable. Wool products are durable and can be used for a long time, minimizing the environmental footprint [13]. However, wool production has negative consequences in terms of animal welfare and the environment. Farmers sometimes use antibiotics to accelerate the growth of the animals and to keep diseases under control [14]. In some cases, animals are bathed in bactericidal antiseptic solutions to protect them from wound infections.

As the wool is naturally greasy, it is often dirty, may contain parasites, and must be washed clean before spinning [14]. Washing uses hot water, detergents, solvents, ammonia, and sometimes insecticides.
Adequate wastewater treatment or closed washing systems are necessary to prevent the release of chemicals or wool grease into the environment.

Merino sheep are known for their delicate and abundant wool. Farmers have long had problems with flies laying eggs in skin folds on sheep, especially on the hindquarters with dirt and feces [14].
A practice commonly referred to as mulesing helps prevent such infestation. This practice is a preventive measure that involves the removal of skin folds from lambs. This phenomenon has decreased since it was recognized in the early 2000s, but it still occurs.

A better option for animals and nature is to choose wool yarn from organic animal husbandry and check that companies set requirements for mulesing-free wool [14]. Certified organic wool is produced without many common chemicals, such as medications that prevent lice, flies, and parasites [15].

Sources

September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK

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