Modal was developed in 1951 in Japan and commercialized in 1964 by the Austrian company Lenzing AG [1]. Today, Lenzing is one of the most well-known producers of modal [2].
Modal is a type of rayon fibre. Modal is another name for high-wet-modulus rayon, or HWM rayon [3]. The fibre is made from regenerated cellulose, similar to viscose, but with a modified process that provides better dry and wet strength, stability, absorbency and suppleness [4]. Modal is made from the pulp of beech trees [5].
Modal is highly absorbent [4], breathable and cool to the touch [5]. Modal fabrics tend to lint less than cotton due to fibre properties and a flatter surface [6].
Modal has a higher wet strength than regular viscose. Thus, the damp strength helps it to avoid shrinking or losing its shape during washing. Modal has many similarities to cotton in terms of properties and appearance but is more absorbent than cotton [7] and more resistant to shrinkage [5].
The softness and breathability of modal make it a suitable material for underwear, undergarments and sportswear [7]. We use it in clothing and home textiles such as sheets and towels (6). We can find the material in blends with cotton or spandex or by itself. We can blend modal with all types of fibres [7].
Modal retains its shape when wet and can be machine-washed and dried on gentle programs [5]. We can iron modal, but not with a too-hot iron and preferably on the inside to avoid the fabric becoming shiny. We can place a cloth between the iron and the modal fabric for protection. Too high temperatures during ironing can burn the fibres and turn them yellow. The manufacturing process for modal is the same as for viscose, using the same methods and chemicals [7]. The difference between viscose and modal production is that for modal, we recycle up to 70% of the chemicals and water in a semi-closed process, which is not the case for viscose. As we use more or less the same process for modal and viscose, it results in similar pollution and emissions. The carbon disulphide used in manufacturing can lead to air pollution, depending on the amount used and the recovery system in place [8]. Modal requires more carbon disulphide than viscose, making the emissions more significant. Modal can be seen as a better option environmentally than viscose, but lyocell is the most environmentally friendly of the three [2]. Lenzing produces modal in a closed process that recovers up to 95 % of the production material, but this system is not commercially available to other producers [7].
Beech trees, from which we make the modal, do not need much water to grow, but turning the pulp into fibre is water-intensive [1]. Only 2.5% of modal is made from pulp from sustainably managed forests [7].
Sources
- Masterclass – Fabric Guide, what is modal?
- Good on you – Material Guide: How ethical is Modal?
- Sewport – Fabric Directory – Modal
- CIRFS – European Man-made Fibre association – Modal
- The Spruce – How to clean and care for Modal Clothes
- Wikipedia – Rayon
- Common Objective – Fibre Briefing: Cellulosics (Lyocell, Modal, Cupro)
- Water Footprint Network – Viscose Fibre Production. Assessment of sustainability issues
September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK
