Linen comes from the flax plant

Linen can be considered one of the oldest textiles in the world [1]. Finds in a cave in modern-day Georgia indicate the use of woven linen fabrics dating back over 30,000 years. Linen has been used in ancient civilizations such as Mesopotamia and Egypt. In Egypt, they used linen in everyday clothing but also in mummification. Linen production has a long history in Europe, including Germany, Flanders, England and Ireland [1]. Linen was the most essential raw textile material until the end of the 18th century, but became less important with the rise of cotton in the 19th century [2].

Linen is made from the flax plant, a stalk fibre taken from the stalk of the flax plant [3]. We find the fibres in the stem and roots of the flax plant. Several processes are required to turn the fibres into textiles: the plant is dried, scratched, roasted, broken, scutched and chopped [4].

The flax plant grows best in cool and rainy climates [5] and is primarily produced in Europe, mainly in France [6]. In 2018, flax and other plant fibres such as hemp, jute and ramie (excluding cotton) accounted for 5.7% of global fibre production.

Linen is comfortable to wear in warm climates as it absorbs and releases water quickly [5]. Linen is a strong fibre that becomes even stronger when wet. It has a high moisture absorption capacity and conducts heat well. However, linen has low elasticity and is stiff, meaning it can break if folded repeatedly in the same place. Compared to cotton fabrics, linen fabrics have a stiffer drape and a rougher feel. They are also more resistant to sunlight than cotton.

Mostly, we use linen in home furnishing textiles such as bedding, towels and tablecloths, but it is also a common material in clothing [7]. Flax is resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, high temperatures and sunlight. Linen fabrics can be dry cleaned, machine washed and bleached. Due to low elasticity, linen may need frequent ironing to remove wrinkles. To avoid being attacked by mould, linen needs to be kept dry.

The environmental impact of flax cultivation is low as no pesticides and little fertilizer are required [7]. Flax produced in Europe can usually survive on rain as a form of irrigation [8]. Unlike cotton, an equivalent linen garment uses considerably less water during its life cycle, mainly due to irrigation during cultivation. Linen not treated with dyes, toxic chemicals or mixed with other fibres is biodegradable [9].

There are different methods of retting (i.e. extracting the fibres from the stem by letting the stems rot). Chemical retting is standard, using harmful chemicals requiring wastewater treatment not to harm nature [9]. Another method is water retting, which consumes large amounts of water and energy to heat the water. A more environmentally friendly method of rotting is open-air retting, which does not require additional inputs of energy, water or chemicals. The processing of flax can also consume large amounts of water, energy and chemicals to enhance the fibre’s lustre wet spinning ability and add other finishing treatments such as bleaching.

Flax production is labour-intensive and requires much manual work [9]. Water, air and environmental pollution can harm the health of workers and those living near the production site.

Flax has less environmental impact than many other fibres [7]. However, you can still look for certifications, such as GOTS and Fairtrade, to ensure that the product contains fibres not grown with chemical pesticides or artificial fertilizers [10] and to contribute to better working conditions for farmers and workers [11].

Sources

September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK

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