Humans have used hemp for a long time; there are remains of hemp cloth from the 5th millennium BC in China [1]. Hemp is said to have been used by humans for about as long as flax. Until the mid-19th century, hemp and flax competed as the leading natural textile fibre. During the Christian era, Mediterranean European countries actively practised hemp fibre cultivation, which later expanded throughout the rest of Europe during the Middle Ages [2]. Additionally, historical records indicate that hemp was grown in Sweden during the same period [3].
Hemp belongs to the same plant family as marijuana. What is known as industrial hemp has less than 0.3% THC, the hallucinogenic substance contained in marijuana [1]. However, this low content is insufficient for hemp to be used as a drug [3]. The EU, therefore, approves the cultivation of industrial hemp in Europe. Because of the association with marijuana, there are restrictions on hemp cultivation in some countries, such as the United States [1]. In Sweden, they were banning hemp cultivation between 1972 and 2003 [4]. Now, it’s permitted to grow industrial hemp of an approved variety that growers need to apply for support to cultivate [5].
Hemp is a stem fibre from the hemp plant that thrives in cooler climates with access to rain [7]. China is the largest exporter of hemp fibre [8]. Hemp also grows in colder temperatures in the Philippines, Italy, France, Chile, Russia, Poland, India and Canada [9].
Hemp is among the strongest and most durable natural fibres (1). Hemp fabric and linen have similar properties; they are excellent in hot weather and retain heat in cooler weather. It is not as stretchy as other natural fibres and has poor elastic recovery. The fibre has good absorbency, which makes it easy to dye. Depending on the plant and processing techniques, hemp can be naturally creamy white, brown, grey, almost black or green.
We use hemp fibres to make fabrics for clothing and furnishings and in technical applications. The strength of hemp also makes it very suitable for cordage, rope and wire [9] and for coarser fabrics such as burlap and canvas [3]. Legend has it that the original Levi Strauss jeans were crafted from hemp canvas fabric.[1].
Hemp is resistant to ultraviolet light and mould [9] and has antibacterial properties [1]. Hemp fabric wrinkles easily but does not wrinkle as much as linen. For laundry, we advise you to machine wash, dry clean or wash by hand in cold water [10].
The hemp plant grows so fast that weeds are smothered and do not need much water [1], [9]. Its root system minimizes soil erosion [1], and no chemical pesticides or fertilizers are required, although these are sometimes used. Hemp adds nutrients to the soil, allowing the land to be used for cultivation for several years [11]. Hemp produces more fibre than cotton and flax on the same ground and has the highest yield per acre of any natural fibre [1].
Hemp fibre is processed similarly to flax by retting, drying and crushing the stalks [3]. The production of hemp requires a lot of manual labour [1]. Hemp cultivation can have negative impacts on the environment and workers. Some methods used to process the fibres, such as decomposition, can use hazardous chemicals or large amounts of water and energy. Even thread spinning can use large amounts of water, energy and chemicals. The health of workers and local communities can be harmed by water, air and environmental pollution during production.
An alternative with less negative environmental impact is daytime retting in processing [1]. Daytime retting does not require additional inputs of water, energy or chemicals. It allows nutrients to return to the soil through natural decomposition. Untreated hemp is organic, but it can affect the organic process if it contains dyes, chemicals, other fibres and other details.
Sources
- Council of Fashion Designers of America – Hemp Fibre
- Encyclopedia Britannica – Hemp
- Nationalencyklopedin (NE) – Hemp
- Wikipedia – Hemp
- Jordbruksverket – Grow hemp
- Textilsmart – Textiles and the environment
- Discover Natural Fibers Initiative (DNFI) – Hemp
- Pearson – Textiles, Pearson New International Edition, 11th edition
- Hemp Fabric Lab – Hemp Fabric Care
- Naturskyddsföreningen – Where do the raw materials come from? How do they affect the environment?
September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK
