Elastane is a stretch fibre that can quickly return to its original shape after being stretched to three times its actual length [1]. The fibre is also known as Spandex, Lycra, Numa, Spandelle and Vyrene [2], [3]. The material absorbs very little moisture, feels lightweight and is cooling to wear [3]. Due to its stretching properties, elastane is often used in socks, sportswear and underwear [2]. In 1958, chemist Joseph C. Shivers pioneered the creation of a revolutionary fibre intended to replace rubber in textiles. This innovation leverages organic polymers, specifically polyurethane, as its fundamental building block [3]. Polyurethane is spun into fibres to produce elastane through various methods tailored to the specific application of the fabric [4]. However, it’s important to note that, much like other synthetic fibres, the production of this material relies on fossil fuels, primarily petroleum [5]. Unfortunately, petroleum is not a renewable resource; it takes millions of years to form, and its extraction and usage can lead to various environmental issues. These problems encompass oil spills, deforestation, loss of biodiversity, and the release of methane emissions.
Photo: Silver Bobbin
The production of elastane is a very chemical-intensive process, most of which are toxic [5]. Two toxic chemicals used are TDI and MDI, the first of which is also cancerogenic. However, these are subject to strict regulations where producers must guarantee that no residues are left in the final products. Polyurethane is used as a coating on textiles and, when manufactured or incinerated, releases several toxic substances, some of which are carcinogenic and toxic to aquatic organisms [6]. These toxins pose health risks to people during manufacture and disposal, so it is essential that clothing such as elastane with polyurethane is recycled [6]. Wearing a product treated with this substance should not pose any health risks. For instance, isocyanate, a highly reactive and toxic chemical, is one of the substances used in the chemical production of polyurethane [7]. According to researchers, there is a great need to develop a more environmentally friendly synthesis of polyurethane that avoids the use of toxic and environmentally hazardous substances such as isocyanate.
Photo: Active
There is certified recycled elastane and elastane that we can blend with other fabrics recycled from plastic bottles (4). The global organic textile label GOTS allows clothes to have a maximum of 5% elastane for labelling as organic. Elastane is often mixed with other fibres, accounting for about 3-30% of the total fibre composition [8]. Most often, we blend elastane with cotton or polyester [2]. In 2010, approximately 80% of clothing sold in the United States incorporated elastane. Fast forward to 2020, and the elastane industry’s estimated worth exceeded 6.9 billion dollars, with expectations of it expanding to 12.6 billion by 2027 [4].
Sources
- Sewport – What is elastane fabric: Properties, how its made, and where
- Wikipedia – Spandex, a variant of elastane
- Britannica – Polyurethane a chemical compound
- Treehugger – What Is Elastane, and Is It Sustainable
- Onegreenplanet – The Environmental Impact of Spandex
- Sverigesnatur – Is polyurethane dangerous to health
- Pubs.rsc – Nonisocyanate poly(amide-hydroxyurethane) – sustainable resources
- Sciencedirect – 8 Sustainable synthetic fibre production
May 2022, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK
