Cotton, a natural fibre used for textile production

Cotton fibre has been used for textiles for at least 5000 years in China and India [1]. Cotton came to Europe in the first century when Arab traders brought cotton goods to Italy and Spain [2]. The Industrial Revolution in the 18th century brought several inventions, such as the spinning machine and the cotton gin, which boosted cotton production in England.

Some of the largest producers in the world today are India, China, USA, Brazil, Pakistan and Turkey [3]. In 2018, cotton accounted for 24.4% of global fibre production and was the most produced plant fibre [4]. Cotton is the second most produced fibre after polyester.

Cotton is a seed fibre from the cotton plant [5]. It grows in warm climates with long growing seasons and easy access to water. White cotton is standard, but it also grows naturally in other colours. Cotton can come in brown, green, red and beige tones. The depth of the colours depends on sunlight and washing.

Cotton field with white puffy cotton plants, brown stems. Blue summer sky behind the cotton field — Photo: Parachute

Cotton fabrics stay cool in hot weather due to the easy passage of moisture through the material and the high absorbency of the fibre [5]. Cotton insulates heat poorly as it cannot hold much air, and the fibre has low elasticity [6]. Cotton also recovers badly from the stretch, causing the fabric to remain stretched in high-stress areas such as the knees and elbows [5].

We use cotton in many different kinds of products for various purposes. Due to its breathability and absorbency, cotton is an excellent material for warm-weather clothing, functional clothing, underwear, bedding and diapers [7]. Other use areas include workwear, technical textiles and interior textiles such as curtains, towels and carpets [1], [5]. Cotton is often the main component of blended fabrics [5]. The most common cotton fabrics are denim, flannel, chambray, corduroy, jersey, oxford, gingham, tartan, poplin, velvet and velour [8].

Cotton products are durable and resistant to washing [1]. Cotton becomes more potent when wet, so it does not need to be handled too gently during washing and use [5]. It also has high resistance to light and heat and can be ironed up to 200°C as long as the fabric is damp [6]. When washed, cotton releases odorous substances such as sweat, smoke or cooking fumes more quickly than other fabrics [9]. Silverfish, bacteria and moulds can attack cotton, so fabrics should be kept dry [6]. We should avoid acids as they can cause damage to the textile[5].

An excellent feature is that cotton is hypoallergenic [7]. Thus, it rarely causes allergic reactions. Garments containing at least 60% cotton are less likely to itch and irritate[9].

Cotton production negatively impacts the environment and the people who work in the industry. Conventional cotton production uses fertilizers and pesticides [10]. Pesticides affect soil and water quality, biodiversity inside and outside cotton fields, and the health of workers and the surrounding population. Water sources are contaminated by pesticide, fertilizer and mineral runoff from cotton fields, affecting biodiversity. Cotton cultivation also significantly degrades soil quality, eroding cropland and expanding into new grounds, leading to the exhaustion of the new land and the destruction of habitats.

Cotton production is a significant consumer of water [10]. It takes 8,000 – 29,000 l of water to produce 1 kg of cotton, i.e. one t-shirt and one pair of jeans. We often use the surface and groundwater to irrigate the cotton fields, leading to loss of freshwater through evaporation and inadequate water management.

Several countries grow genetically modified cotton called Bt cotton [11]. Genetically modified cotton has increased resistance to herbicides or insect pests [1]. In India, genetically modified cotton is the predominant type grown [11]. However, there is much criticism of GM cotton cultivation, such as that GMOs (genetically modified organisms) lead to biodiversity loss, and we draw parallels between the number of suicides among Indian cotton farmers and the high price of GM cotton, which leaves many farmers in debt.

Cotton farmers are economically vulnerable; falling cotton prices and crop failures significantly impact an already strained economy. Large debts are common among farmers due to expensive purchases of, for example, GMO seeds, pesticides and fertilizers. Workers in cotton production are also vulnerable; in some countries, there are poor working conditions, child labour and forced labour [11].

An alternative to conventionally grown cotton is organic cotton, which means that the fibres are grown organically, i.e. without chemical pesticides, artificial fertilisers and genetically modified crops [12]. We produce organic cotton using natural processes adapted to local conditions [13]. Labels that indicate organic cotton in textile products are Organic Content Standards (OCS) and Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS). Another certification to look for is Fairtrade. Fairtrade-certified cotton focuses on social sustainability, i.e. improved working conditions for farmers and workers [12], [14]. There are also requirements related to the environment, such as the prohibition of certain chemicals in cultivation and the use of genetically modified cotton seeds [12], [15].

Sources

September 2020, TÄNKOM | Revised May 2024 RETHINK

Footer

Partly financed by