Corduroy, also called Manchester in some parts of Europe, is a soft, velvety fabric with a characteristic ribbed pile that can vary in width. Corduroy is shaped by weaving into parallel rows of raised ridges called wales, which run vertically along the fabric. The fabric is woven with three threads, two of which form a plain or twill weave, while the third forms the pile that gets cut and shaved afterwards. Twill weave usually produces a more durable fabric than plain weave, which tends to shed lint.
The space between the ridges and their width determines the corduroy’s “wale count.” The wale count usually expresses the number of grooves per inch. Wide-gauge corduroy has a low number, such as four wales, while narrow-gauge can go up to 21. A classic corduroy has between 10 and 14 wales. The wales act as an insulating layer of air, making the fabric warmer and perfect for colder climates. The fabric is soft and durable and is mainly used for outerwear, trousers and furniture.
Corduroy is usually made from cotton but can also be made from polyester, wool, or viscose or with a blend of polyester and elastane. Originally, it was said to have been made from silk.
The corduroy fabric production was widespread in the 19th century in northwest England, where Manchester is located, hence the Swedish name Manchester. In English, the fabric is called “corduroy”, and the origin of that name is debated. According to legend, it comes from the French’ corde du roi’, meaning ‘royal thread/clothing’. But in France, the fabric was called velours à côtes, meaning “ribbed velvet”. Hence, a more plausible theory is that it’s a combination of ‘cord’, meaning string or rope, and ‘duroy’, a coarse cotton fabric that originated in England.
The fabric was also called ‘poor man’s velvet’ in the 20th century, when velvet replaced corduroy among the rich, and the fabric became popular among the working class.
Sources
Arket – Corduroy 
Etymonline – Corduroy
Fashionary – Textilipedia
Sewport – What is Corduroy Fabric
November 2024, TÄNKOM | Revised November 2024, TankOm
