Real fur comes from animals like sheep, reindeer, mink, foxes, and raccoon dogs. For these animals, fur provides protection and insulation, shielding the skin from minor injuries while reducing the risk of infection. In some species, fur also acts as camouflage, allowing them to blend into their environment and avoid predators.
Many animals have oily coats that repel water and keep the skin underneath the coat dry, which is particularly important for animals that live in or near water. Dense fur also protects against wind, reducing heat loss from the animal’s body.
The fur also acts as an insulating layer by trapping air between the hairs. The body heat warms this air and helps keep the animal warm. Many species have a double coat, a soft undercoat close to the skin and an outer layer of longer, coarser hairs. The undercoat provides extra insulation by trapping extra air, while the outer layer protects against the elements. In warm conditions, the coat can also help protect against overheating by reflecting away some of the sun’s rays and allowing air between the hairs to provide some ventilation.
Many animals shed their fur according to the seasons to regulate their temperature. In summer, they shed some of their fur to get rid of excess heat, while during winter, they develop a thicker coat to keep warm. When it is cold, some animals can raise their fur (e.g. when they get “goosebumps”), which increases the amount of air trapped and improves insulation. These features allow the fur to adapt to variable climates and environments, which is crucial for survival.
People originally hunted animals for food and used their fur to stay warm in cold climates. As civilisations evolved, fur shifted from being a necessity to a symbol of luxury. Today, farmers breed mink and fox for their fur, while others hunt and trap animals like raccoons and beavers. The fur from these animals is mainly used to make outerwear.
Furs from reindeer and lamb can also be a by-product of meat production. Although these furs are used for clothing and accessories, they are more commonly used in interior design as rugs, seat pads and cushions for outdoor seating.
The industrial processing of animal skins involves several steps, including cleaning that eliminates dirt and meat residues. The tanning process comes next, where chemicals secure the fur and protect the hairs from damage. Information on the chemicals used varies, but formaldehyde and chromium seem common, although salt, alum, cornstarch and vinegar are also used. Formaldehyde is used to protect the hair during tanning. The suede side is then softened with oils and stretched. Some furs remove their coarse outer guard hairs to make the coat lighter, neater and softer, as the heat effect is mainly in the soft, dense under hairs. Afterwards, the coat can be finished, dyed, or bleached using various synthetic substances.
Fake fur is an alternative to real fur, made from synthetic materials, but has other challenges.
Challenges & Impact on the Environment
Fur farming has been heavily criticised for its unethical practices, with many animals living in enclosed spaces, unable to perform their natural behaviours and needs. Hundreds of clothing and fashion brands have opted out of fur in their production due to customer pressure.
Another challenge is chromium tanning, which uses chromium-3. If mishandled, it can convert into chromium-6, a carcinogenic and allergenic compound similar to formaldehyde. This tanning process poses environmental risks through emissions and health risks to industry workers and garment wearers.
There are alternatives to chrome tanning; for example, reindeer skins have been tanned with natural substances for thousands of years by the Sami, and these methods are still in use today. Traditionally, people use every part of the reindeer for different purposes, including the meat, skin, horns, and tendons.
Sources
Britannica – Fur 
Fur Free Alliance – Toxic Fur
Truth About Fur – Fur processing techniques
World Animal Protection Sverige – Pälsindustrin I EU
November 2024, TÄNKOM | Revised November 2024, RETHINK
